why wont puppy learn toilet training??????

Question

why wont puppy learn toilet training??????

Answer 1

Get him on a schedule first. For example, a good walk in the AM before you leave the house and when you get home - 30 min - and that should tire him out so and empty his bladder. Is there someone who can come and check on him while your not home so he gets a break while our gone. Also watch him like a hawk if you see him going to the chairs and he looks like he about to pee tell him no right away and then take him straight outside so he can pee. Always use the smae door and eventually he will associate that door with having to go. After awhile you'll see him go to that door when he needs to go. Some dogs learn this very quickly some may take longer. You need to be consistent with the training as if your not he will become confused and revert back to his old ways. It will take a lot of work - Good Luck!!

Answer 2

11 weeks is too young to expect miracles. You pup should be confined in the house with a baby gate, he shouldn't have the run of the house. I've had dogs for 30 years and I've never had a wonder pup that has been house trained at 11 weeks. Be patient and above all don't scold or yell at him when he pees in the house, that doesn't work, he'll be afraid of you or start going where you can't see him. Take him outside frequently and wait outside until he goes, then praise him or give him a small treat. Your pup isn't sullen, he's reacting to being scolded for an act that's normal and probably doesn't know why. Good luck.

Answer 3

He is 11 WEEKS old. His muscles are not very well developed yet, he doesn't know how to 'hold it' and he isn't going to until he's older. Most dogs are NOT reliably house broken until they are 5-7 months old (I know that there are exceptions out there.) Get rid of the puppy pads and take him out on a schedule. Do NOT allow him to play or sleep until after he goes. Walk him around the yard, take him over to your other dog's 'excretion spot' (only if both have had their vaccinations/dewormer.) and verbally encourage him to go. He will learn eventually. He is a 'timid sullen dog' because of how YOU are choosing to handle him and his training. You should think about re-homing him if you are not willing to give him a fair shot. Judging him by your 'like 20 dogs' behavior is not doing anyone a favor.

Answer 4

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A friend recommened it to me a few years ago, and I was amazed how quickly it worked, which is why I recommend it to others. The dog training academy also has as an excellent home training course.

Answer 5

You need to start by scrubing the carpets with an enzyme cleaner, so he can't smell the parts he has marked already. These places will just be too tempting as indoor potties.



Crate-training is a really good option for when you're not around or when you can't watch your dog. He can't be crated all day. The younger the pup, the shorter the time period they can be left in the crate.



I wouldn't recommend using puppy pads. Your dog needs to learn to go outside all the time - not go outside sometimes and go on the puppy pads sometimes.



As far as getting the dog used to going outside. I would start with taking the dog out every hour (every hour) - stay outside and when the dog goes - take it back inside and give it a treat. If you stand outside for a few minutes and the dog doesn't go - take it back inside but don't give a treat. Make sure the area doesn't have any toys, and when you're first potty training, don't play with your dog when you take it outside. It needs to learn to go and to go quickly - otherwise, you could end up standing in the cold while your dog takes its time to go.



Also, keep an eye out for signs while you're inside. If your dog starts to sniff or circle or squat, grab it and take it outside. If it uses the bathroom while outside, give it a treat. When I was potty training my dog, if my dog started to have an accident, I would just shout stop. The sound would startle her, which made her stop peeing. Then I'd take her outside fast and let her finish peeing outside. I took her back in, gave her a treat, and cleaned up the mess.



The key is to reward the dog for going outside, and not reacting if she has an accident. You don't want the dog associating peeing with you being mean to it. Then it will just find a spot to pee that is out of sight of you.



You also might want to start giving a command for going to the bathroom. Say "do your business" or "go potty." Or something that your dog will learn means to go to the bathroom. This helps once you start playing outside with the dog; then your dog knows if you want to play or if you want it to go, so you can go back inside.



I would never rub her nose in it or punish him especially if you don't catch your dog in the act. If you come home and find a surprise, the dog could have done the deed hours ago. Punishing him hours after the fact doesn't do any good. And by rubbing the dog's nose in it, he gets nothing out of it. He only thinks you're weird. By punishing him, he is just going to start hiding his accidents.



If you treat and praise every time he does something good and ignore every time he has an accident, he is going to figure out what you want. Don't expect a change over night - he is still very young.

Answer 6

Hey,

You should definitely attend a dog training course if you want to stop these unwanted behaviours. A good one I found online is http://www.goobypls.com/r/rd.asp?gid=572



It's really well made (it has a lot of videos), simple and effective. I recommend it.

Best

Answer 7

What you need to do is wipe up his wee each time with toilet paper and put it on the mat where you want him to wee he will soon realise that the wee smell is on the mat and he will understand that is where he is supposed to go. This will only take a few days for him to learn. It works

Answer 8

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If you use a dog training device it would be common sense to first look up how to use it before using it. Such devices get a bad reputation by people using it, without knowing how to use it.



If you give a dog a shock, the dog doesn't know what to do. If I go up to you and slap you, you wouldn't know why either and except for the likely impulse to slap me back you would have no idea why I slap you and what I expected you to do so I won't slap you again.



Your dog doesn't even know where the slap came from and what he is supposed to do. Before you use an electric collar on a dog you need to figure out the lowest setting the dog can notice. You start at zero and slowly set it higher until you see a reaction from your dog. What you are looking for is a twitch of an ear, or a startled look. Really, you don't want to hurt your dog, you want to get your dog's attention.



Once you established what level works for your dog, you need to condition your dog. If you want to use a collar for improving your dog's recall, your dog needs to already know what it is supposed to do when you call "come" (or whatever command you use). Now with a collar on, you call your dog, you can give your dog a short shock, but if your dog comes you stop immediately. You want that your dog learn he is in control. If he comes, he won't get a shock. Read up on "how to condition a dog to a electric collar" and don't use the collar again until you understood it.



I have an electric collar for my dog, but I paid a little more than $200 for it, it is rechargeable and I am happy with it. I've read through a whole bunch of reviews for the cheaper collars and they seem to not last very long, though you can get lucky. But I figured I rather spend more one time than a little often.



My dog is also very happy with the electric collar, because if I pull the collar out, he knows he is doing something more fun than a walk on a leash and he loves running off leash.

Answer 9

the best thing to do is to take him out regularly. he will eventually understand that he has to go outside to go to the toilet. When we got our puppy pug we did that with her and she learned very quickly. Hope i could help. Merry Christmas

Answer 10

I had a friend who had ALOT of trouble house training a cocker spaniel. Don't know if this is normally a hard breed to train or not. Be consistent! Is someone there during the day to keep working with it? Maybe you should give up the training pad idea and try to stick with only going outside. . . Maybe it's confused by you trying to teach it both and just doesn't do either.

Answer 11

Look up crate training on the net.

Prevention of accidents is the key. Most pups will not mess in their beds unless there is no other choice, they can't hold it.



I use crate training on pups and dogs alike.

Answer 12

A Cocker Spaniel should be automatically clean. I'd say you have either a puppy-mill puppy that had no opportunity to be clean, or you have a neurotic inbred one from show lines - probably an American Cocker (an extremely long-coated show breed) rather than a Cocker Spaniel (a medium-coated hunting breed).



What you have been "consistent at" is training him to NOT go toilet outside - you have let him play around then taken him back inside.



(1) You must remove all traces of his piddle-scent inside - there are products available from pet stores. Whether they will damage your carpet depends on your carpet.

(2) You must WATCH him, and as soon as he shows the pre-toilet restlessness you PICK HIM UP and take him outside. (You are going to have find your own solution to the "older dog outside" situation - naturally a puppy is going to want to play or scream (depending on its own nature) as soon as it sees another pooch.)

If you are a bit slow on the uptake and he's started before you get there you STAMP the floor and yell "NO!" as you scoop him up. (Yes, you CAN wash your hands after step 4, also the door-knobs....)

(3) You put him on the official toilet area and ignore him until he eventually decides to go toilet, and THEN you praise him and pat him, using over & over again whatever word you want him to associate with emptying bladder and/or bowel. (Northern hemisphere people discover that getting a puppy in November-December is NOT a good idea - it gets COLD outside, eh! But he's YOUR puppy, so you STAY there until he obliges.)

(4) Only then do you play with him then bring him back inside.



Once he knows that piddling inside is verboten, you either trash the special mat-whatever, or start placing it where he is supposed to go toilet outside. And naturally you praise him when he piddles or poos on it. ('Coz you're consistently praising+rewarding him for going toilet, not for using the mat, not for just being outside.)

Once it has HIS smell on it he is likely to use it, so you take it inside and watch him carefully and repeat steps 2-to-4 - he is still not allowed to go "inside", he is merely allowed to go "where his smell is". So the picking up & carrying is as important as it was with the previous training, and so is the foot-stamping; so is the YOU staying there until he obliges, at which time he is praised.



Training consists of rewarding desired actions EVERY time, and reprimanding undesired actions EVERY time. And timing is essential - praise & reprimand must be IMMEDIATE, not 5 seconds later.



And by the way, the older dog should have accepted the pup as soon as he/she sniffed your hand-scent all over the pup.

(1) A properly trained dog accepts whatever its human wants.

(2) Puppies are immune while they smell like puppies - especially while they smell like puppies with the boss's smell added - provided they have learned the proper submission postures to use when they've pressed their luck too far.



My youngest came to live inside at about 8 weeks old, when the rest of her litter went to their homes. She had the run of the house (until she decided to drag the toilet paper around, so the toilet door was shut at night until she outgrew that). She hardly ever broke the "Dad's bedroom is verboten" rule, she was happy copying whichever parent or relative was inside.

Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly

"In GSDs" as of 1967

Answer 13

next time he wees on the floor stick his nose in it ,it might seem cruel but it works.