● "German Shepherd starves self to not eat dry food"
I half-believe you, but although you put that where your main question is supposed to to be it doesn't ASK us anything. It wasn't until your very LAST line that you thought to actually ASK us anything:
● "Any recommendation for other GSD owners cause i have read that they are known fickle eaters"
Sure. Start feeding him as a DOG.
The canid species developed to digest raw animal proteins - birds, eggs, fish (but NOT those needles), insects, mammals, reptiles - whether fresh-killed or as carrion.
Diseases such as bloat started to escalate once people began supplying kibble-mucks instead of meat plus cooked table-scraps (do NOT supply baked or roasted bones, nor mouth-hot spiced foods).
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/The_GSD_Source/links/all/Feeding__Nutrition__GDV_Bloat_001198556443 will show you many ways to feed a a dog, but a prey-model is what I recommend (as do my dogs...). If you MUST supply a kibble-muck, it has a link to help you compare what's available in your area.
Note that 2 meals a day is safer than 1, for dogs fed kibbles - kibbles produce a lot of gas during digestion, especially as the dog swallows the whole lot in almost one gulp, instead of the bits arriving well-spread-out-in-time the way it reaches the stomach after gnawing. During digestion, the kibbles also produce a sticky fluid that makes the gas-bubbles almost impossible to pop.
My current 22-months *****, Bea ( http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/dog.html?id=1325022 ) still gets 3 meals a day, similar to what's in the Diet_Sheet in the Feeding section.
· Breakfast: the cheapest dog-biscuits, sometimes served in the powders-beaten-into-cow's-milk it lists, mostly just in water. No need to pre-soak, let alone in hot water - GSDs should have HEALTHY mouths.
· Sausage Snack: 200gms (about 7 ozs) of a cheap commercial dog sausage. I'm happy for her to miss it, but almost every night she arrives within minutes of 8pm, resting her chin on my lap or giving/hitting me with one of her toys to indicate that she wants me to throw it so she can fetch it to "earn" the snack.
· Supper: More dog-biscuits, 4 chicken wings (or a lamb's brisket, whatever), a lamb or pork bone. At about 11pm she repeats her 8pm behaviour to show that her tummy considers that a meal is DUE, please!
Canned food is GREAT when I am travelling with a dog - none of my pooches has worked out how to open a can while I am driving. But otherwise I regard it as an expensive way to buy flavoured water, except when I have a GSD recovering from a severe operation.
As your pet is happy to wait 3 days, there are some factors you need to consider.
·1· The ratio between his exercise and his food intake. In the wild, wolves do eat only every 3rd day, but they work HARD for that kill, and afterwards they eat until they cannot move! Next day they polish off whatever scraps, hide, bones remain. On the third day they "socialise", and next day start a hunt.
·2· His body condition. Most pet-owners produce an obese pooch, aiming for something as bulky as a Rottweiler. But herding dogs should be in the same hard, lean, wiry condition as a champion Marathon runner. If yours is an SH (short coat about 55mm/2" long over the shoulders) you can SEE whether he is "right" - when he is running around you should see each rib outlined by the muscles working over it; when he is rested you should see NO ribs (or no more than one edge of the very last rib). If he is an LSH (about 110mm/4" long over the shoulders) or a banned LH (silky coat about 150mm/6" long), you will need to train your fingers on a fit GSD, to learn when there is enough-but-not-TOO-much fat between the ribs.
Over the years I have had a LOT of pooches ("Fockers", GSDs, a Cairn Terrier) and NONE of them were "picky". We cancelled our order for a pup from our nation's first Irish Wolfhound litter when we found that the future-parents were, as the breed's main book stated, having to be hand-fed during their growth period. In the 1970s I did have acquaintances with a picky GSD - they were hand-feeding her, instead of putting the dish in the fridge as soon as she left the dish.
Read about Pavlovian Conditioning, and make use of it.
#1: Have a SET meal-time (within about 5 minutes)
#2: Initiate it with a somewhat noisy physical routine (such as call your pet, bang some cupboard doors, then bang the dish on the bench, then open the fridge door, Sit the dog, then stamp your foot, whatever).
Take the LIMITS in http://www.fci.be/uploaded_files/166g01-en-sv.doc seriously. GSDs under or over them can NOT gain Breed Survey Classification as a GSD (and so should not be awarded an Excellent grading), because they are too puny or too massive to economically perform some of a GSD's "design tasks". For a male, the LIMITS are:
59-66cm (= 23¼-26") and 30-40 kg (= 66-88 lbs)
Sadly, far too many Yanks are infected with "the Texas Syndrome" and so consider that, to be any good, everything must be BIGGER.
The table in http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/The_GSD_Source/links/all/Size___Weight_001198649681 tells you average weights for genuine GSDs at each month of their first year. An average is not a requirement, but the closer your pet is to "average" at each stage, the better his chances of maturing as a TYPICAL GSD.
Add
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/The_GSD/Source/
to your browser, so that you can easily look up all sorts of information about dogs, especially GSDs.
To discuss GSDs, join some groups such as
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GSD_Friendly/info
The people in them KNOW about GSDs. Plus you can include actual photos in your posts.
King Les The Lofty - first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968