I'm an inexperienced pet owner adopting a puppy, Can you please take a look at my pre-puppy guide?

Question

I've always wanted a dog. And now my parents have caved in. And I'm not gonna be the kid that begs their parents to death to get them a dog that they stop taking care of in like a week.


I want to be responsible for my puppy almost in whole, because my parents work, so can you please take a look at this small pre-puppy checklist for me?
http://www.jotthisdown.com/index.php
FEEL FREE TO ADD ADDITIONS TO THE LIST, anything that you think is missing. And any other general tips/pointers for owning/training a puppy would be great. thanks.

Answer 1

It looks like you've done some research. That puts you heads above most on here. However, I disagree with the whole rice thing. Rice is good for a dog on occasion. It is an excellent resource when upset stomachs happen. It may not be as nutritious but, it is easy on the digestive system. I always have rice on hand and add it to their food at least once a week.



Yeah, dogs are not people so dont dress it. Its a dog and will only be happy as a dog. You wouldnt like living a life pretending to be something your not. DOGS dont EITHER

Answer 2

You can cut a few things from your list -



Dogs do not need "shoes" for instance. Only Huskies wear booties to protect their paws from the snow/ice, and very few working dogs wear them for that reason. Pups will not need them and will more than likely chew them off.



And you do NOT need a harness for your pup. They teach the dog to pull and don't give you as much control (ever see someone dragging their dog along while the dog has it's whole body turned and is yapping behind them?) Use a flat buckle collar to start and TEACH the dog not to pull via proper training.



Retractable leashes are DANGEROUS and should be avoided until the dog knows proper leash manners (IE doesn't pull, weave, lunge, etc) and will recall 100% of the time. Use a regular six foot lead until the dog is at least a year old.



I would also forget IAMS - that is a low quality food. The rest of your choices are okay though.



You don't need any water or dispenser for in the crate - when the puppy is in the crate it is for sleeping (unless it is also your food area). Pups should never be given access to food/water overnight or they will simply refill and have to go potty more often (usually in the crate, which totally offsets the whole point to crate training.)



General care stuff - food should be three times a day (four for small breeds.) Last feeding should be at FIVE, never after or you will have trouble with potty training (the dog will need more frequent potty breaks during the night if you feed later.) Water should be picked up at six.



Neutered/spayed is a YES. Adopted dogs should not be bred as they have questionable genetic backgrounds, and many rescues/shelters require the dog to be fixed.



Don't forget to puppy proof!

Answer 3

Sounds like great research and a great list

just a couple of comments.

Add. puppy class and when a bit older, at least one obedience class,



I don't put water bottles in crates. water = have to pee = pees in crate= future housebreaking problems. A puppy should not be left in a crate so long that he needs water anyway.



I don't like retractable leashes. for a couple of reasons, it teaches them to pull. and you have no control in an emergency. A simple 6 ft leash, I prefer leather, but nylon will do. If you start to get into distance training a long line.



Doggy shoes are unecessary except for in very extreme weather conditions.



I never use hand soap for bathing any dog.



Except for the very tiny puppys or dogs with trachea issues, I don't like harnesses either. Again, they teach a dog to pull.



I know it is a common practice, but except for extreme cases, I don't like the spray bottles for discipline. This teaches them to fear water and spray bottles. Not good if you should ever need to spray them for anything.



I have no idea what the snow fencing is for. If you are talking about that plastic snow fence that you string from poles, it is useless to keep a dog in or out of anything except for a few seconds.



Also, I love exercise pens. get one that is tall enough for your puppy when he is grown. They fold up and you can take them everywhere,



These of course are just my opinions and preferences.



For your puppy's first collar, an inexpensive adjustable one. otherwise, you are going to be replacing it every week. You can get a nice fitted permanant collar one she/he is finished growing.



Also, Spay or Neuter is an absolute yes.



Congratulations and good luck with your new puppy.

Answer 4

Wow - I'm impressed! Looks like you did research before even getting the pup. Wish more people would prepare the way you are. That is a puppy list that even a old pro like me wouldn't come up with. If I were your parents (and hadn't agreed to get you the puppy) after seeing that list - I would definitely consider getting a puppy as you seem to be a responsible person. Good luck and have fun with the puppy - also kudos for adopting.

Answer 5

Check out some training classes you can both get into and don't worry so much!

Looks like you have a pretty good list going already.

You may wish to get some pee pads- a personal choice.They are great liners for a crate as well.

Answer 6

You will do fine and as long as you spend a lot of time with your puppy and always be the leader of the pack you will both be happy. Raising a puppy is like raising a child, it is 10% learned and 90% instinct and common sense. As long as you take it seriously everything will be fine.

Answer 7

Looks good, but forget the harness. Harnesses are for people that are inept at actually training dogs. Besides that, thanks for being a responsible future dog owner and doing your research before getting a pup. We need more people like you!

Answer 8

Sounds like a very thorough list. Good job!

Thanks for doing your research before adopting!

Answer 9

If you want to splash out on a few good books I would recommend -



Unlock Your Dogs Potential: How to Achieve a Calm and Happy Canine



http://www.amazon.co.uk/Unlock-Your-Dogs-Potential-Achieve/dp/0715326384/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245854238&sr=1-1



100 Ways to Train the Perfect Dog



http://www.amazon.co.uk/100-Ways-Train-Perfect-Dog/dp/0715329413/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245854286&sr=1-1



Both by Sarah Fisher who does T-touch therapy



The Perfect Puppy: Britain's Number One Puppy Care Book

by Gwen Bailey



http://www.amazon.co.uk/Perfect-Puppy-Britains-Number-Care/dp/060061722X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245854383&sr=1-1



and lastly

The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller



http://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-Positive-Dog-Training/dp/0470241845/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245854449&sr=1-1



If money is short see about getting them on loan from the library.. they can order them in from other library's if they haven't got their own copy.



Not sure why you want doggy boots? Saw them on your list... totally unnecessary!! You only need some basics to start with. A bed, bowls, brush / comb, collar and lead. And don't get an ID tag with the dogs name on it. It can then be used by rogues and dog nappers to pinch your dog... You must have YOUR name, post code / address and a contact phone number. But don't put the dogs name on it.

Answer 10

You forgot you must play with it even when you don't want too... Ugh I have 3 dogs and it's kind of boring to do it but very rewarding.

Answer 11

Great list! You must be an older, smarter kid to have come up with this!!! Remember, if you are a kid who wants to go to college someday, you won't be able to take your dog to a dormitory. You will have to rent a house. This is a major consideration, otherwise the dog becomes your parents'. Actually, the dog is your parent's responsibility since they are the ones who get sued if he bites someone or damages property. You must have parents who support you and who will feed/water/walk your dog when you are at after-school activities. Most kids are very busy, so it is not reality to expect them to be 100% responsible. Parents must bear 50% of the burden and that only increases as you get older and start dating (unless you take your dog on your dates!) Train your parents well, and make them go to dog training with you!!! The last thing you want is for your parents to undo all your training by sneaking food to the pup under the table. :)



That said, you left five critical things off your list:

1. Buy a super premium food to prevent shedding

2. Enroll your puppy in a puppy training class

3. Get doggie bags for picking up

4. Get puppy training pads for in an X-Pen.

5. Get an X-Pen



The proper food will eliminate shedding, farting, stinky poop & unnecessary vet bills. Iams is not a SUPER premium and is low quality. I consider it one of the kitchen sink foods. Every dog I have ever fed it to had allergic reactions and stinky poop. I have found only one company that makes several formulations that contain enough natural oil to prevent shedding: See Naturapet.com. They have a store locate on their site in addition to a list of online retailers. By the way, feed canned food for the first year of life with plenty of dog bones to remove tartar. Kibble not only causes dehydration, but dehydration causes shedding all by itself not to mention kidney suppression and susceptibility to urinary tract problems. Also, use purified water for drinking since today's city water contains long lasting Chloramine and other toxic chemical traces (allergy prevention, kidney protection.) In hot climates canned food is mandatory for any dog. My big skinny dogs also get kibble that is soaked overnight in 50/50 ratio water to kibble.



Choose a Training Class that teaches you how to use an XPen to potty train your dog. Crates are for adult training, not puppies. I don't like crates for puppies unless they are huge, otherwise you end up with poop all over your dog's feet. I have seen more dogs ruined for potty training because of crates. If you have a Great Dane, then a crate might be necessary since they can jump X-pens. The main thing to remember is that the puppy containment area must have 3 areas:

1. Sleep pad

2. Play area

3. Puppy Pad or towel



Until you learn if your puppy is a paper pad chewer, you might use a towel for the potty pad. Crates are great for adults but they are too small for crazy active puppies that will make a big mess of things. I use crates for re-training rescues or males that lift their legs, NOT puppies.



Don't use the clicker unless you take a training class on how to use it. It is very easy to miss use it. You click for the act, not the treat.



Regarding collars and leashes, forget the Flexi-leash. It trains your dog that he is alpha, not you. These should only be used by handicapped people such as those with weak shoulders. They are no substitute for taking a dog to training class. IN TRAINING: A premier or Martingale collar should be used at training (a pinch collar for a pulling dog.) PLAY: A harness is okay for play, such as walking down a trail. A Premier is okay for a puppy that might slip out of their harness when in a strange place. A regular collar is good for hanging dog tags on, in case he runs away. Remember that flat faced and toy breeds have soft tracheas that can be easily damaged by regular collars and chain collars so avoid those. The damage is permanent.



Lastly, the best dog training you can do for any age of dog is walking/running for 30 minutes per session. When done shortly after a meal, it also serves the purpose of potty training. A fact about dogs is that they must run about 500 feet before their stomach muscles move their bowels. Dogs RARELY poop when they first get out of the car at the park. A dog park is a great place for potty training a puppy because of all the strange doggy smells. I hope you have one near you. Off lead running is the best exercise. Also, training on a schedule is critical. Do this for two weeks, and do it at the same time each day (yes, your dog has an inner clock) and you will have a perfectly potty trained dog in under two weeks. One of my dogs was potty trained in 24 hours with this method.

Answer 12

Every pet shop that sells puppies will assure you, solemnly, that their puppies are different. Their puppies don't come from puppy mills, but from fine local breeders. Pillars of the community, in fact.



The reality is that responsible breeders will never place one of their puppies in a pet shop or anywhere else for resale or consignment. Never, ever, ever. Any breeder who has placed their puppy in a pet shop to be sold has immediately disqualified himself as a responsible breeder.



WHY?



Because, as commercial establishments, pet shops are required to sell a puppy to anyone who can pay. Legally, they are not allowed to "screen" buyers for suitability. Responsible breeders wouldn't be able to sleep at night wondering which of their puppies might have gone to an unsuitable home and was not being properly cared for.



But my pet shop says...



The pet shop industry has manuals and trade journals that teach pet shop owners and employees exactly what to say to persuade you to buy. Their marketing ploys include:



"We buy only from local breeders."

What difference does this make? Whether a breeder is local or lives in Timbuktu, whether he has produced only one litter or many -- if he has placed his puppies in a pet shop, his breeding practices are irresponsible. Geographical location makes no difference at all.



"We buy only from USDA-licensed breeders."

USDA stands for the United States Department of Agriculture. Their business is supposed to be livestock. They know little or nothing about dogs. As long as a breeder's paperwork is in order, the facilities are disinfected, cages are a minimum size, and no infectious diseases such as distemper are immediately obvious, the kennel passes.



The USDA has not the slightest interest in...

* whether the breeder knows anything about his breed

* whether the dogs used for breeding look like their breed

* whether the dogs used for breeding act like their breed

* whether the dogs used for breeding are free of genetic health problems such as hip dysplasia, eye diseases, or heart defects.



Don't buy from USDA breeders.USDA Breeder is a label to stay away from. The only reason someone would apply for this license is to crank out lots of puppies.



"Health guaranteed!"

This "reassuring" platitude is how pet shops and irresponsible breeders seek to get around the expenses of genetic testing.



They offer to replace defective puppies rather than avoiding them in the first place by requiring their "wonderful" breeders to do genetic health tests on any parent dog used for breeding.



Let's look at it from the PUPPY'S point of view. Guarantees don't help a puppy at all. You get your money back, while the puppy still has to live with the genetic health problem that could have been avoided -- if his breeder had been seeking to produce healthy lives rather than seeking to keep his expenses down by avoiding genetic health testing.



We're talking about quality of life here. Don't support any breeder or pet shop who cares so little about the future life of their puppies that they do not require genetic health testing of the parents, in breeds where such health problems are virtually an epidemic.



Pet shops aren't too worried about their "guarantees", by the way. They don't have to honor many of them because most genetic health problems don't show up for six months or a year or two years. Either the guarantee has expired by then, or most people won't return a dog they've had for that long.



Not just HEALTH problems



Obedience instructors and canine behavioral consultants will be happy to tell you about the temperament and behavior problems that develop in many pet shop puppies as they grow up.



Bad temperament shows up later.Most pet shop puppies start out playful and friendly, but as they mature, their genes begin to assert themselves. If their parents or grandparents had shy or aggressive or hyperactive temperaments, those genes will show up during adolescence and adulthood.



Many pet shop puppies are nippy. Some were removed from their mother before 7 weeks of age, a critical period of time where she teaches them "bite inhibition." Some have learned to nip from interacting with so many potential owners wandering through the pet shop, including kids who tug and play roughly. Most of these potential owners thought the nipping was cute, didn't correct the puppy for it, and so the habit becomes entrenched.



Housebreaking can be a problem.Finally, raised in a small cage in which they're encouraged to eliminate freely, pet shop puppies are notoriously difficult to housebreak.

Answer 13

That looks excellent :) Good luck with your puppy!

Answer 14

I think you have went above and beyond some of that stuff is not necessary