Questions about Samoyed puppy for first time owner?

anonymous

2010-03-20 02:14:16 UTC

1) No. Samoyeds are incredibly social and lived in the arctic WITHIN the Samoyed people's choom (hut). Your pup will grow up to chew the everlivin out of that sunroom as well and bark like all crazy heck.

2) Get a crate and crate train your puppy. Sams are known for being chewers. They are also difficult to housetrain if not confined when they aren't being watched.

3) All of the above. More toys. And frankly MORE human exposure and time with people. Brush DAILY - even the spots it doesn't want to have brushed.

4) Stainless steel bowls. Remember - Samoyeds chew.

5) No. Not at all. Samoyeds are SOCIAL

6) It's whimpering because it is in a strange place and NO ONE IS KEEPING IT COMPANY... this will change to HOWLING and barking as the dog ages if it doesn't get enough attention.

7) Brush daily - bath and blow dry (high velocity cattle dryer) as needed http://www.altasamoyeds.com/grooming.htm I would add "coat rake" to the equipment list

8) Start reading FAST! Clueless is NOT a good place to begin with a Sam. Google NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) - LEARN IT. Basic training http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/%20Dog1/levels.html Favorite Samoyed website http://www.hawkwindsamoyeds.com/

Samoyeds are arctic survivalists. They've been bred for thousands of years to do what works best for them.... which means they are wily, conniving, smart, stubborn, PITA dogs with an agenda. The trick as a Sam owner is to stay a step ahead of them and to make what you want them to do worth their while and fit their agenda.

PS: Samoyeds are generally considered to be a very difficult breed for a first time dog owner.

And Samoyeds are only well-mannered dogs when sufficiently TRAINED... there is a reason why so many of these dogs end up in the rescue at 18 months.

The time you invest in spending time with this puppy and in training it during the next full year is what will make this dog a great addition to the family --- or have you relegating him to lonely garden ornament or being dumped in rescue.

I really am highly concerned that having your mother be someone who is opposed to dogs is dooming this dog... I don't know of any decent breeder who would find that situation ok.... which then makes me concerned for whether this dog was properly bred for health & temperament.

Feel free to email me at animal_artwork@yahoo.com if you need assistance.

Teresa

2016-04-25 16:23:36 UTC

1

fryback

2016-10-01 09:56:04 UTC

Samoyed Puppies

Kelsey

2010-03-20 02:12:52 UTC

How did you end up with a "surprise" Samoyed? Whoever gave it to you out of the blue didn't really do you any favors, considering that it can be a challenging breed for first-timers and new owners need time to prepare for a new puppy.

1. He definitely needs shelter, yes. I'd try to get your mother to reconsider. He needs to be where the family is for socialization and his own mental well-being. It's never good for a dog to spend all of its time outdoors, even if it has a roof over its head. And if your mother is that opposed to it, whoever gave you the puppy really stepped in it. If he IS going to be outside, he needs a fully-enclose kennel and regular interaction and supervision. He also needs to be properly trained. Just leaving him out in the sunroom isn't going to cut it and could easily drive him nuts.

2. You should invest in a kennel appropriate to his (adult) size and have an actual dog bed for him. For the time being you can use blankets or towels. He just needs to be comfortable.

3. He needs: the aforementioned crate and kennel, a collar, a leash, ID tags, good food (meat-based), treats (dental, training and general), chewing toys, fetch toys, a cuddly toy, food and water bowls, flea treatment, a brush, dog shampoo, stain and odor cleaning supplies, and bitter spray (to keep him from chewing on household things). He's also going to need vaccinations, a neuter and heartworm meds from your vet. Those are some basics but you'll find you may need other things along the way.

4. Until you can get him a food and water bowl, I guess, but he needs his own dishes, pronto.

5. He should probably be boarded or left full-time with someone. Leaving him alone, especially outdoors, is NOT a good idea.

6. Yes, he will whimper and probably cry. It happens. Don't coddle him or give him attention when he does it or he'll keep doing it. Make sure you're giving him LOTS of exercise and interaction otherwise, or he'll start yelping and howling out of boredom.

7. He needs a good brushing every day, and you can take him to a groomer on occasion for a nail trim. He also needs regular baths with dog, not human, shampoo.

8. While I'm sure you love your puppy and whoever gave it to you had good intentions, they should have alerted you that you were going to get it so you had time to prepare and know what you were getting into. This is a very young puppy from a breed that can be difficult to work with if you're not sure what you're doing. You needed much more of a heads-up, especially if your mother didn't really want it. But, oh well.

EDIT: Listen to the Samoyed owner below me. He knows what he's talking about.

bechard

2016-12-12 14:30:57 UTC

Samoyed Dog

anonymous

2010-03-20 17:30:20 UTC

This puppy is going to chew up everything in that room if you leave him there alone. Brushing is a must everyday; he has to get used to it or he'll never let you groom him. Sounds like you are in for a ton of work since you weren't prepared. My samoyed needed attention every day or they get cranky and will pout. The cardboard box will become scrap because puppies need something to chew on when they are teething. Mine actually chewed through an oak spindle in my house. Good luck and start reading some of the books about samoyeds.

anonymous

2016-06-04 05:42:10 UTC

Many people love the idea of owning a dog but one thing that they have to keep in mind often times, is that the dog needs to be trained. While the pet may look heart-breakingly cute when it's in a shelter or at the pound, picking out the dog is only the first part of the relationship between dog owner and the animal. Many people don't understand that they have to put time and effort into socializing the dog.

An unsocialized dog will intimidate others, tear up the home, and will create an environment that can become so bad that the it will have to be returned. Many times when dogs have to be returned to shelters or to other resources, it will end up euthanized, which is very heartbreaking. All of this can be spared if a person learns the various techniques in order to socialize the dog.

One thing that they have to understand is that the he wants to be told what to do. It's in the canine nature to follow a leader. The dog will be more than willing to obey the leadership of its master. Here's a look at some common techniques that are used in dog training:

"Dog Whispering"

This is a technique that has been around for a while, but gained national notoriety over the last 10 years. Some people might hear this term and wonder how in the world whispering to a dog can train it! Whispering isn't meant to be taken literally in this case. As trainers have shown, whispering is a term that refers to connecting with a being or an entity on a very deep and almost spiritual level. When it comes to dog training techniques, dog whispering involves careful observation of the dog's behavior and actions.

It literally entails getting inside the mind and the behavior system of the canine. When a person uses dog whispering techniques, they interact with the dog on the canine level. Again, one the most common mistakes that people make is treating the dog like a small human being.

"Reward Training"

Reward training is very simple and it's one of the older tricks that works. This is a simple method of training the dog by positive reinforcement. Once he does what it is told to do, it receives a treat. How this works is that the dog owner must entice the dog towards the treat. Once the canine develops awareness for the treat, it develops a strong desire for it. When the desire for it is extremely strong, the dog owner pulls back. Then the dog receives a command and when the dog obeys the command, it receives the treat. The object is to make the dog associate a treat with the command.

"Clicker Training"

Other dog training techniques include one that is similar to reward training, which is called clicker training. How this works is that the clicker is incorporated to get the dog's attention. The clicker is clicked as a form of communication with the dog. It learns that there is a command or reward associated in conjunction with the clicker. Many people claim that this is fun, and they actually make a game with the dog by using the clicker for their dog training tasks.

"Ultrasonic Whistle"

Last, a relatively new form of dog training technique is called the ultrasonic whistle. This works because the ultrasonic sound is only heard by the dog. When the owner is trying to communicate a command, or stop the dog from barking, they will blow on their whistle when they want to communicate a command to the dog. The benefit of this is that the humans can't hear this noise, but the dog can hear it, and they will learn to associate the sound with a command.

Dog training techniques aren't hard to incorporate, but they are something that absolutely must be incorporated from the time a dog owner brings their new dog home. No matter how old or how young the dog is, they will need training. Once they are trained properly, they will be a wonderful addition to one's family.

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anonymous

2010-03-20 07:09:00 UTC

Hi,

As gorgeous as it is, the Sammy coat is a bear to groom. Owners must be diligent brushers to make sure it doesn't tangle and mat. And as you might guess, come shedding time, the amount of white hair around the house, yard, on the furniture, and stuck to your clothes can be overwhelming. That said, to the owner who can handle the responsibility, a well-groomed Samoyed is a sight for sore eyes. Here are some info:

http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/rzt.html

Diana

2016-04-07 10:35:38 UTC

For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/axXAw

1.) Find a food comparable to the one you are feeding now. Check for ingredients and protein/fat/etc. I usually give an 6 day change. First 2 days, 75% old food, 25% new food Second 2 days, 50/50 Third 2 days, 25% old food, 75% new food. If the puppy vomits the food up during this period, extend it out a few more days to give it time. 2.) As said before, put a short leash on and let her drag it around. Give treats during this time too. Pick up the leash now and then and don't pull, just let it hang loosely so she feels it. 3.) Pick up things likely to be chewed, such as shoes, books, etc. Keep cleaning items away in cabinets. Watch for furniture to see if she starts chewing. If she does, check your local pet store for items like Bitter Apple spray. 4.) Best source, talk to your breeder. She successfully did it, so she is going to be the best person to talk to.

Filberto

2016-01-23 03:15:23 UTC

questions samoyed puppy time owner

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2014-09-13 02:24:00 UTC

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maricela

2016-04-15 13:53:24 UTC

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anonymous

2010-03-20 02:10:33 UTC

1) My mum is quite opposed to having dogs, so she's not letting it into the house. I read that its good to include it in our pack, so we're leaving it in a tiled, semi-enclosed sunroom outside.

Is this accomodation okay? It not ideal, but it will do, as long as you remember dogs need more then food and water, and spend hours outside given her obedience trainning, and remember to take her out for lots of walks to meet new people-essential for socialisation purposes

2) Since it was a surprise, we don't currently have a dog bed. Right now we have a shallow cardboard box with newspaper, a towel and a litter pad, and he refuses to sleep in it.

Should I make one or buy one? Pups willl not doubt chew cardboard, and they also chew cushion, i go and buy a nice plastic kennell, and put foam bed in, it last more

Can I put the litter sheet in the box or next to it? Best to put it outside the kennel as if its inside, he may think it okay to pee in his bed

We live in a four seasoned town, so how do I accomodate him / make his bed? As long as it doesn't snow, just make sure that the kennel is positioned where he can see everyone,

3) What do you suggest we should buy for it, in terms of objects. Eg, leash, toys, chew toy, etc.

Approx Cost of owning a dog 1st year

Purchase Price=$1000

Food=$500

Vacinations=$150

Vet bills=$400

Spay/neuter=200

Bed=$150

Treats=$100

Chew bones=$150

Bowls=$25

Collar=$20

Leash=$20

Trainning=$450

Fence=$1500

Vitamins=$75

Flea Control=$200

Heartworm=$100

Shampoo=$25

Grooming=$400

Grooming Tools=$250

Dental Care=$40

Stain Cleaner=$75

Waste Disposal=$50

Trainning aids=$300

Deworming=$30

Boarding=200

Crate=$150

Car Restraint=$100

Approx 1 year cost =6,600

Approx yearly cost $2485.00

Total over the life of a 14 year old dog $38,905.00

4) Is feeding it food and water from a shallow takeaway box alright? Nope, Get a plastic or steel bowl from the local stores

5) If we go on holidays, is it okay for us to leave it in the backyard+sunroom with someone feeding it twice a day? Puppies should have someone around them for 90% of the day, its essential for there development, i suggest putting off any holidays until pup is 12month, the puppy state is critical period of socialisation, i suggest boarding the dog at a boarding facility or getting a pet sister to come and feed, water and take him out.

6) This is its first night - is it normal for it to be whimpering? I thought it might be missing its parents.

yes it completely normal, learn to ignore it whimpering, give it affection when he not wimperiing.

7) How often do I groom it, and how? A nice slicker brush with white or coloured heads brush it out, a medium/or collie comb, and comb it out, and a nice two sided brush-pin and bristle brush. Pretty much if you don't want any matting to occur you need to spend a good 15mintues of longer on the dog daily grooming alone. Samoyed are generally very well mannered dogs with normally a naturally friendly nature, they do require human companionship, and they pretty energetic, they don't have a doggy odour. There nicknamed the smily dog

8) Any other relevant info?

http://www.nextdaypets.com/directory/breeds/1100229/

http://www.dog-breed-facts.com/Breeds/samoyed.html

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/samoyed.htm

http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/buying/articles/petshops-and-pet-stores.html

http://www.petstorecruelty.org/

http://petcare.suite101.com/article.cfm/pets_as_christmas_gifts

Look at feeding Eagle Pack and Eagle Pack Holistic if possible

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2014-09-25 09:37:35 UTC

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2015-01-27 21:16:50 UTC

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berry

2016-04-25 05:49:57 UTC

Training your dog will be a huge part of your interaction with him for the first few months. Learn here https://tr.im/chP70

This includes housetraining, leash training, obedience training, socialization, and problem solving. In addition to providing your dog with needed skills, this time will also be a great opportunity for you to bond with him. Take the time to really get to know your pet while training him and a loving relationship will easily develop.

anonymous

2014-09-15 10:27:17 UTC

Hey there,

You should definitely attend a dog training course if you want to stop these unwanted behaviours. A good one I found online is http://www.goobypls.com/r/rd.asp?gid=572

It's really well made (it has a lot of videos), simple and effective. I recommend it.

i luv guinea pigs

2010-03-20 02:36:09 UTC

Hey we have the same name lol.

Anyways don't stress to much your doing everything just fine.

Now about the grooming, the whimpering and the bed. you should bath it every 2 week with dog shampoo and every other week just brush him but if hes benn rolling in something or something you can bathe him 2 to 3 times a week. the whimpering is just because hes just a puppy and he just wants to sleep with you in ur bed ok so its all ok in that area and if he is missing his parents then Just make sure that you play with him alot. you can just make a bed out of a cardboard box.

anyway bye hope i help

wishnuwelltoo

2010-03-20 10:43:05 UTC

1. NO, all puppies, all breeds, are indoor puppies the first year. 2. No, get a crate, the puppy needs to see you and be reassured he was not abandoned. Put the crate by the bed, leave a night light on so the puppy can see you and be reassured, play a soothing cd or radio until the puppy goes to sleep. I have a lumpy pillow in the crate with small blankets (you want something easy to wash if the puppy has an accident) small food and water dish and toys or carrots for teething. Maybe a tee shirt with your scent will help too. 3. Crate, food dishes, combs/brushes, tooth brush and puppy tooth paste, collar, leash, toys, puppy shampoo, mostly a good vet. 4. stainless steel or ceramic food dishes are best, use what you have for now. 5. NOOOOOOOOO, it is only 1 hour for each month of age with puppies, so a two-month-old puppy can only be alone/hold its potty for two hours at the most. Dog walker, pet sitter, family, church friend, neighbor to help when the puppy is first little, come home during breaks or lunches. You do not take a vacation or anything like that the first year of a puppies life, you need that for training. 6. It is normal for a puppy to protest the crate, put the crate by the bed, leave the night light on so the puppy can see you, the puppy needs to see you and be reassured it was not abandoned again. Play a soothing cd or radio until she goes to sleep. 7. They usually get a bath every 6 weeks, I think it would be good to ask your vet or breeder for help. You really need someone who lives where you do to help you care for and train this puppy, this is a tough breed for a first time owner. I would also suggest you use search answers on this site for potty training, leash training/walks, house training, barking, biting, jumping, things like that. When my puppies are first little, I practice with the leash. In the house, I drape the leash on them and try to call them to me. Outside, I practice in my fenced back yard for about a month before the puppy graduates to the street. I might drape the leash on the puppy and get him to follow me, or drag the leash on the ground and see if he will follow me and try to catch the leash. There are many things in my back yard that scare a puppy, so it is soooo much easier to address, or correct issues when I am in my back yard and not in the street. We just walk laps in the yard and deal with drama as it comes up. Maybe around 3-months-old I might try to clip the leash to the collar, but if there is too much protesting, I drop the leash. They just get better with the leash around 4 to 5-months-old. So anyway, I use the commands "go" when I want to "go" and if the puppy tugs on the leash, I stop and say "wait". It is my walk and we go as fast as I can walk and no faster. If I want to "wait" and look at a flower, change the batteries in my walkman, count to ten, then I do it, it is my walk. When I am ready I say "go" and we "go" again. When the puppy pulls on the leash, I stop and say "wait" and we stop again, even if we just went two steps. I praise the puppy when he is doing good and talk soothing to him and encourage him when he is doing good, so he keeps doing it. It takes several laps of "go" and "wait" until he settles down, and when the walk is over, I make a big fuss and clap and then they get some play time. They don't like the walk at first, but they like the fuss at the end. I have to address "go" and "wait" again the next day, but it won't take me as long to get him to understand what I want from him. I also housesat a dog, and the owner thought he had leash issues, and that dog just didn't like being in front. He walked just fine with my dogs as long as he could be part of the group, but he didn't want to be in the front. If you have a family member, or a neighbor that has a dog that walks well, see if you can practice with them. I also had one dog that didn't like the maroon leash, or the pink one, but did just fine with the blue leash. Sometimes puppies are just puppies. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:

*I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.

*OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.

*SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.

*YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.

SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from