New Puppy Checklist
Puppies are at their most impressionable during early puppy hood. It is at this time that the many good and bad habits are formed. Preventing bad habits (e.g. chewing, barking, marking, biting, jumping up, lead pulling) at an early stage is much easier than rehabilitation after a bad behaviour is formed.
It is therefore essential to get off on the right foot, right from the beginning. So what does this mean ?. Well, it means building your education and understanding in the many aspects of dog ownership, before you get your puppy or dog.
Over the coming months, we hope to build up a selection of articles about preparing for a new puppy. In the meantime, Dr. Ian Dunbar's book Before You Get Your Puppy is recommended reading for those new or lack recent experience in puppy selection and the early days of ownership.
As well as building knowledge, the vast number of products available for dogs generally bewilders newcomers. Many of these lack the appropriate advice dog owners need to determine how, when and where they should be used. Unfortunately, The New Puppy Checklist below does not resolve that dilemma, but it does list those items that, in our opinion, are must have's and need to in place before your new puppy arrives at your house.
1. Dog Crate: The benefits of crate training are such that a dog crate comes at the top of the new puppy shopping list. Our article Crates and Crate Training looks at these benefits in more detail.
2. Dog Chew Toys
(lots of them): The destructive capability of dog chewing can leave unwitting owners completely dismayed. It is essential to focus chewing in the right direction right from the very start. Dog chew toys that can be stuffed with food are always a good choice . The Kong Toy is without doubt the market leader here and our article How to Use The Kong Toy gives useful advice on using Kongs and stuffing recipes. Additionally, there are also specialist puppy chews such as the Nylabones. These are flavoured and have different levels of hardness to suite puppies of different ages. Steer clear of rawhide and pigs ears at this stage.
4. Dog Toilet Housetraining can certainly take the shine off the early days of puppy ownership, so it is essential to have a strategy for this from day one. The article House Training - The Modern Way gives an up to date insight into this and is well worth a read. However, key things to have at hand are:
Home made or purchased house training pads Non-ammonia disinfectant such as Petsafe - Super Safe Disinfectant.
5. Water Bowl Lets face it, this can be an anything from an old dish to designer or automatic dog bowls
6. Dog Food (kibble) During the first few weeks, feed all of your puppies meals using the stuffed Kongs. Also feed a small amount by hand as rewards for training and socialisation. We recommend Nature Diet primarily because it is one of the few completely natural dog foods, and to be quite frank, it looks more appetising.
7. Dog Treats Have plenty of treats on hand to be given by men, children, postman or any strangers to help build confidence. Also use as rewards.
8. Head Collar & Lead These will become essential when you start taking your puppy outside, so don't wait too long before acclimatising them to wearing a head collar or a collar.
All dogs are pre-programmed to soil outside their nest, so in this respect puppies already have an instinct to move away from the nest at around 3 weeks of age to go to the toilet. With time, puppies will learn by themselves to be toilet trained. All we are doing is speeding up the process and adding a few helpful things along the way.
Housetraining is one of the first things you will teach your puppy and it is the start of your relationship with them. It is important that the puppy's first experience of his new family is a positive one.
I was told to punish my puppy when he soils inside
The old method of punishing the puppy in any way (including rubbing his nose in the mess!) is plainly cruel and will only delay the housetraining process, not to mention the mental damage you will be doing to your puppy. One of the effects of punishment is the loss of control of the sphincter and the bowels and thus the problem becomes aggravated.
But he always looks guilty when I get home
Some people incorrectly believe that their puppy knows it has done wrong, since the puppy seems too look guilty when they come in and see the mess. This is not true, as all the puppy is doing is responding to your body language and displaying submissive/appeasing language in the hope that he will not be punished. The puppy does not know why he is being punished when his owners come home. Human concepts of guilt, regret, spite, etc, or even knowing that the carpet is a covering for the house floor does not exist in dogs. The puppy just did the very natural act of eliminating when he had to.
What are the ground rules for housetraining?
The key to success in housetraining is to be alert and well prepared. Here are a few tips:
• Keep your puppy confined to a small play area at first if you cannot keep an eye on him or when you are away from home. This could be the kitchen, utility room, bathroom or a section of the room with a cordoned area using a puppy pen. This area should have a floor that can be easily cleaned.
• Ensure they have a comfortable bed, a bowl of fresh water, plenty of hollow chew toys. Puppies can get particles of toys stuck in their throats and can die, so the best chew toys are kongs and sterilised hollow bones stuffed with dog food. You will be teaching him to target his chewing at chew toys and nothing else. It is also a great idea to feed your puppy's dinner in Kongs.
• Create a toilet area at the furthest point from his bed. Place polythene underneath to ensure that waste matter does not leak through. Alternatively, a cleaner and more efficient method is to use puppy training pads such as those by Simple Solution.
• Make sure that he cannot get to other items in the room.
How often should they be let out to do their business?
Your young puppy should be allowed out once every hour to eliminate. Use a designated toilet area in your garden and let your puppy walk and sniff around the area. Keep it clean to ensure that he will not go somewhere else in the garden that is cleaner. By selecting a specific area, you are helping your puppy understand what you want from him when he is taken to that spot and it will be easier to keep clean. Products such as Swiftie House Training Aid and Simple Solution Potty Training Aid for Puppies are useful to help train your puppy to eliminate in a specific area. The pheromone treated Pee Post from Simply Solution can also help in attracting your puppy to a specific spot.
It is also a good idea to have a keyword for your puppy to let him know that you would like him to go to the toilet. It could be anything you want, for example 'busy'. This will come in handy as he gets older and you need him to relieve himself at an appropriate time and place. Make sure you stay with your puppy when you take him outside (on the lead, if needed), as this will prevent him from getting distracted or upset with the separation and thus forgetting about relieving himself. You only need to take him out for a few minutes. If he doesn't relieve himself in that time, then you can put him back in his play area or supervise him until next time. Don't forget he will be going back with a full bladder, so keep a good eye and try again in half an hour's time.
You should always try to take your puppy out at the following times:
• Immediately after the puppy wakes up
• First thing in the morning
• Last thing at night
• A few minutes after eating
• After playing
• After any excitement (e.g. after visitors greet your puppy).
Reward your puppy with calm, happy praise and with your chosen keyword as he is relieving himself (e.g. 'good boy, busy') and give him a couple of extra special treats after he has done his business (e.g. a small piece of dried liver or cheese). Do something very special after he has successfully used his designated toilet; like a game, lots of cuddles and maybe if he has had his vaccinations, take him out for a walk (the ultimate in dog rewards!). The benefit of taking him for a walk after his toileting means that your puppy will learn to be a fast eliminator and you will save yourself from having to clean after your puppy outside your home. By making toileting a happy experience, your puppy will soon get the message, have positive associations and learn quicker.
What signs should I look for?
If you see your puppy sniffing around the ground, crouching down about to go to the toilet or actually going to the toilet inside the house, quickly get his attention by clapping, calling him excitedly and running to the door so that he will follow you out. If he is actually going to the toilet you may need to shout something extravagant to get his attention and stop him in his tracks (e.g. something silly like 'sausages!!!' will help as it is not personal or aggressive). Make sure the shout does not scare him as this will make him nervous and more prone to toileting in the wrong place. The purpose of the shout is to alert him. By doing so, he will shut his bowels and hold it whilst you walk him outside. It is best that he makes his own way out the door rather than carrying him out, as this will help him learn that he actually needs to make his own way to the door when he needs to go to the toilet.
What if my puppy makes mistakes?
You will need to clean the area thoroughly to get rid of smells. Note that household cleaners do not get rid of all the proteins that we cannot smell. Do not use any cleaner with ammonia or bleach, as it will smell similar to the ammonia in urine and the puppy will identify it as a toilet area. Specialist cleaners such as PetSafe Super Safe Disinfectant is a safe ammonia-free solution specifically designed to help with housetraining.
Odour removers (such as PetHealth - Odour Free) are also good at removing all proteins traces that household cleaners do not remove.
How long should it take to housetrain my puppy?
Like all young animals, puppies do not have full control of their bodies. Depending on the individual puppy, the breed and how much effort you put in the training, it may take up to 8 months to have a completely housetrained dog. Accidents will probably happen at night since the puppy may not be able to hold it in for many hours at a time initially. However do not despair; as long as the puppy is consistently going outside during the day he will soon learn that toileting means going outside when he has better control of his body.
You can also have your puppy in his crate in your room initially so that you can listen for the signs. If your puppy cries during the night pay attention to him and take him outside immediately. Do not fuss him or play with him, just go outside with him for a few minutes until he eliminates, praise him and then calmly and quietly take him back to sleep in his crate. This way the puppy doesn't think that three o'clock in the morning is a good time to play.
AND FINALLY…..
Remember prevention is the key to successful housetraining. Take things slowly, have consistency and keep a routine. Be fair and kind to the young life endowed into your care. You will soon be enjoying happy, mess-free days with your best friend.
But my grown up dog is not yet house trained
If you have an adult dog that is still soiling in the house, then you will need to ensure that your veterinarian has not identified a medical condition. If the dog has not got a medical condition, then you will need to start housetraining from the beginning using an indoor crate. See our article Dog Crates and Crate Training for good advice about using crates. It is worth putting the effort in and ensuring you are constantly supervising your dog. If you do, then it should only take you a couple of weeks to re-train him. Follow the guidelines as with puppy housetraining. However adult dogs have more control of their bodies so they do not need to be taken out as often as puppies. Once the dog has gone outside, he can have the supervised run of the house; until you feel it's time to take him out again.
SEE OUR FULL SELECTION OF HOUSE TRAINING AIDS
http://canineconcepts.co.uk/cat--HOUSE-TRAINING-SOLUTIONS--house-training
House Training Aids
Dog crates and crate training
Its cruel to lock my dog in a crate or cage?
Many people think this is true, as they would certainly not want to be locked in a crate (note that dog crate and dog cage are the same thing) for any length of time themselves. Well, this is not the case for dogs who are 'den' animals. Just look at where they want to spend most of their sleep and relaxation time - under the table, tucked in the corner of a room. In the wild, wolves and wild dogs are known to burrow holes to sleep in.
Hopefully you are getting the picture, basically dogs like to feel safe and secure when sleeping and somewhere they can be alone. A dog crate is able to provide this safe haven.
Why use a dog crate / cage anyway?
A crate helps address many of the problems that cause stress and anxiety to pet owners. They serve a useful purpose to prevent (and rectify) problems associated with destructive behaviour and fear of strangers or other types of people. They help with house training, with visitors who are afraid of dogs and of course when travelling with your dog.
Where should I put the dog crate?
The best places for a crate or cage are in the corner of rooms, away from too much heat and cold drafts. Dogs like to be near their pack (which is you), so locate the crate where your dog can see and hear you. It's a good idea for the crate to be your dog's only bed.
What do I look for in a dog crate / cage?
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A dog crate is a usually a rectangular enclosure constructed of wire, plastic, canvas or even wood. Some people prefer to start out with a wire crate as these are less prone to being chewed in the early days of crate training.
Whichever type of dog crate / cage you get, they should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting their head on the top. Also remember that a dog crate that is too large defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control. If you are purchasing a crate that is large enough for your dog when fully grown, block off part of it so that your dog feels snug and secure (some manufacturers sell optional partitions for their crates). Make them as comfortable as possible with washable blankets.
It is also a good idea to have a cover to darken the inside of the dog crate, this helps settle your dog and make it less likely for him to be disturbed by distraction outside. Covers can either be a blanket or a purpose-made fitted cover. Whichever you choose, make sure your dog’s crate has plenty of ventilation and is not in direct sunlight
When should crate / cage training start?
It is best to start crate training when your dog is still a puppy, that's not to say you cannot train an older dog, it just takes a little longer.
How long should I use a crate / cage?
Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old, well past the chewing stage. You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as its own special place. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean your dog off it.
Crates are not just for puppies, they are also a valuable tool to help solve behavioural problems in adolescent and more mature dogs. Acclimatising older dogs is a lot harder and will require more patience. If you plan to travel a lot with your dog, it may well be worth continued use of the crate.
How do I acclimatise my dog to the crate / cage?
You can't lock you dog in a crate and just expect the whole concept to work - it won't. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as its home and special place. Here are a few guidelines:
• Start by leaving the crate door open, and place all your dog’s toys just inside the door. Hence if they want a toy they will have to climb into the crate a bit and retrieve it. You can also use special treats as a further encouragement to enter the crate. Day by day, move the toys or treats further back. It will only take a day or two before your dog starts to go into the crate to lie down.
• After a few days of napping and sleeping in the open crate, quietly close the door (preferably while your dog is asleep) and leave it closed for a few minutes or until they wake up. Once awake, open the door, praise them and release them from the crate.
• Gradually build up the amount of time the crate door is kept closed. Eventually, you will be able to stay in the room, with the door closed, and your dog will lie there quietly until they fall asleep.
• Once this is comfortable for your dog, leave the house, and then return immediately. Move on to leaving your dog for longer and longer periods of time (3 minutes, 5 minutes, 7 minutes, 1/2 an hour, and so on), until you do not hear any barking or crying at any point.
• Continue increasing the time and work on trying to get a fixed routine of leaving the house (i.e. picking up your keys, putting your coat on etc)
After acclimatisation, then what?
• Put your dog in its crate at regular intervals during the day up to a maximum of 2 hours.
• Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the dog in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone. (thus keeping your sanity)
• By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, your dog becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to prevent separation anxiety later in life.
• Give your dog a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening.
• Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the dog,
• Although the crate is your dog's haven and safe place, it must not be off-limits to humans. Acclimatise your dog from the outset to letting you reach inside at anytime.
• Do not let the dog out of the crate while they are barking or they will think that barking is the key to opening the door to the crate. Wait until the barking or whining has stops for at least 10 seconds before letting them out.
• Finally, but most importantly: NEVER USE THE CRATE AS A PUNISHMENT AND NEVER DISCIPLINE YOUR DOG WHILST IN THE CRATE - it is their haven, a place of safety and security and should not be associated with any negative experiences.
Should I allow them to soil their crate?
Most dogs and puppies will not soil their "den", but you should ensure you walk your puppy outside every 1-2 hours. However, accidents will happen, particularly during the night. To minimise this, take them out just before bedtime and first thing early in the morning. If you hear whining during the night, get up and take them outside.
Do not punish the dog if it soils the crate. Remember, a new puppy needs to go out every 1-2 hours. This includes after feeding time, upon waking up, after play sessions and whenever you see them sniffing the floor.
Immediately clean any accidents in the crate with a specialised odour remover cleaner. Do not use ammonia-based cleaners as these will attract further soiling due to their similarity in smelling like urine..
Training with Dog Whistles
Dog whistles were traditionally considered the domain of the gun dog and herding dog handler. They are now becoming increasingly popular with the wider dog training community as well as many pet dog owners who want to achieve better distance control of their dogs
This article discusses the fundamentals of dog whistles, whistle training and the most common commands associated with this type of training method. Even though you do not need to be a dog trainer to do whistle training, it is not something you dive into without understanding the fundamentals of dog training. This article assumes the reader has a basic knowledge and understanding of dog training techniques.
Why and which dog whistle?
Historically, the reason a whistle became the tool of choice for distance training was the need for minimal verbal noise during hunting or shooting. Nothing is scarier to a wild animal than the sound of a human voice. In addition, dog's ears are more tuned to the higher frequencies of whistles than they are to voices. These frequencies also travel greater distances- hence their benefit in achieving better distance control.
You will see from our dog whistle collection that there is a huge array of different dog whistles on the market. Some are made from metal, some are plastic and you can even find some made from stag or buffalo horn (but not in our store !). There is what is known as the 'Thunderer', which is like a referee's whistle. At the other extreme there is the quite inappropriately named 'Silent Dog Whistle', which by the way is not silent, but it does operate at a very high frequency which is considerable more audible to dogs than it is to humans. In between these there are a large number of dog whistles operating at different frequencies; some are variable frequency, some have peas and some do not, others combine two whistles into one to have dual frequencies.
Gundog handlers will often have their own dog whistle preference depending on the breeds they handle or how energetic their dogs are. Many of them prefer plastic dog whistles because they can be more comfortably held in your mouth, thus keeping both hands free. In summary, whistle selection is far from a precise science, but if you want some guidance, our selection of Acme Dog Whistles is accompanied by a brief explanation of the preferred usage of each whistle.
We always recommend using a lanyard. These are lengths of knotted cord that allow you to hang your dog whistle to hang around your neck. These save a lot of scrambling around in pockets or on the floor when you drop it.
What commands can I use a dog whistle for ?
You can use a dog whistle for almost any command, but the primary benefit is to communicate the commands you are likely to need when your dog is at a distance from you. Although there are 'standard' conventions for most whistle commands, don't feel limited to these. The most important thing is consistency, so decide on your signals and stick to them. Here are the 3 main dog whistle commands :
Action Required Verbal Command Whistle Command
Sitting the dog at a distance 'Sit' One long whistle blast with your hand raised and open
Calling the dog to you [dogs name] 'Here' Multiple whistle pips and arms stretched out to the side.
To redirect your dog in another direction Two pips on the dog whistle and show the new direction with your hand
How do I start whistle Training?
First of all, using a dog whistle requires a bit of practice. Try generating the rising and falling notes, long blasts and short pips. Practice the 'spit' blow to produce short sharp notes. This requires you to put your tongue over the end of the whistle and effectively do a spitting action !
THE SIT The distant 'sit' is the most important command to master early in your whistle training programme. When your dog is in the sit position, you are more likely to have their full attention to any follow up commands. The added benefit of mastering this command is that it stabilises any situation. Assuming that the command 'sit' does not occur in the middle of the road, a sitting dog is calm and out of trouble or danger, ready for the next command.
Lets assume that your dog has mastered the close up sit command accompanied by a raised hand signal. Start to replace the verbal command (i.e. continue with the hand signal) with the whistle command. This is one long blow- but not too loud- while you are working close up to your dog. If they don't respond correctly, then add the verbal 'sit' command. With practice, your dog will gradually respond to just the whistle and perhaps the hand signal for reinforcement.
Don't attempt to dive into long distance 'sits' at this stage- you will need to build this up slowly. Start by practicing the sit position at just a couple of steps back. When they do this successfully, go back to the dog and praise them warmly. Don't be tempted to call your dog towards you as they will understand the returning to you as successful completion of the exercise. If, as you increase the distance, your dog attempts to move (or crawl) towards you, repeat the command again. It will take a large number of training sessions to build up the distance, remember - small steps at a time. When your dog is able to sit at considerable distances (say 50m), you can then start to practice moving out of your dog's sight for a short period. Then start to build up the amount of time you are out of sight.
COMING WHEN CALLED You must have the ability to recall your dog, no matter what the situation or other temptations. The best way to achieve this is by ensuring that returning to you is a rewarding and highly pleasurable experience available to them. To do this it is essential that you never punish your dog for returning to you regardless of what they were doing before (or how angry it made you!).
Recalling a young puppy is often quite easy as they often lack the confidence to wander far away. It is important to take advantage of this period in building the recall command and associating it with very positive experiences. To get your dog's attention and make it return to you, be prepared to step out of your comfort zone in terms of your own behaviour. Use high pitched voices, clap your hands, jump up and down. Make yourself seem as interesting as possible to your dog. If you are really desperate, use a treat or run in the opposite direction to your dog. Their natural chase instinct nearly always gets their attention and brings them running. When they get to you, heap on the praise, hug them, play a short game or a tummy rub. Anything that makes them think returning to you is just the real business.
Start to introduce the whistle when recalling. To start with, you could just whistle yourself unaided and gradually move onto the dog whistle as your distances increase. Assuming your dog is able to sit on command, practice walking away from them a short distance, then using the pip-pip to recall. Sometimes return to your dog instead of doing the recall. This will stop your dog anticipating the command or always assume a sit/stay is followed by a recall.
If at any time your dog seems confused, keep calm and don't start shouting (this will only make things worse). Go back to commands that your dog has mastered and start to build up slowly again. Training is always two steps forwards and one back. Be prepared for this and to take it in your stride (excuse the pun!). Remember praise = success - ignore = fail.
Other than gun and herding dog handlers, most people are happy to achieve successful distance sits and distance recalls with their dog whistle. You can, however, move onto more advance commands involving directing your dog to particular locations to retrieve objects and much more. Further details about this can be found in the many books available on the subject.. If you want to get more involved with gun dogs and gun dog training, look up the British Association for Shooting and Gundogs.
Learning Bite Inhibition
Most puppies will start to learn bite inhibition when playing with their litter mates and mother. But when they are taken away from this social structure we must make up for their incomplete learning.
How do puppies learn bite inhibition?
Observation of puppies within a litter helps in our understanding of how they learn. Typically, they roll and scramble around and have simulated fights. Using their mouths to grab and bite each other is a common feature of this activity and of course its not too long before one pup grabs and bites a little too hard. The natural reaction from the victim is a loud yelp, startling the culprit and causing a lapse in the play activity. Puppies soon learn that being too eager in their play-biting results in a scary noise and the momentary loss of a playmate, neither of which they like. This is how, during puppy social interaction, they teach each other to play gently.
Should I look to eliminate biting altogether?
Not straight way! Biting is natural in all puppies and they must first learn mouth/jaw control and to inhibit the force of its bite. Dr Ian Dunbar, a world renowned animal behaviourist and vet, suggests a four step process to eliminate biting:
Inhibit the force of bites
As previously mentioned, puppies must understand that they must not bite hard. During this stage there should be no need for physical punishments or restraint. The best way to teach this is during normal play sessions with your puppy. If they bite too hard, let out a loud 'Ouch' and stop playing for a moment. Depending on how painful or severe the bite is, further measures may include walking away from the play session or even leaving the room. Eventually your puppy will learn that painful biting results in the loss of its favourite human play mate.
Eliminate Jaw Pressure Entirely
Even though your puppy no longer hurts when biting, this step looks to completely eliminate bite pressure. This is achieved by gradually reducing the threshold that triggers the loud 'Ouch' to the point where even the slightest pressure results in a reaction. This form of biting is best described as 'mouthing' and you should look to achieve this by the time your puppy is 4-5 months old.
Inhibit the incidence of Mouthing
Now that your puppy mouths rather than bites, the next stage is to teach your puppy to stop mouthing when requested. A good way to do this is to hand feed a portion of your pup's dinner. Use the commands 'Off ' and 'Take it' to signal when your puppy can touch your hands to take the food. Practice this over time and you can gradually eliminate the food and use the commands during play sessions. Remember, this stage is about ensuring your puppy stops mouthing when requested, it is not about preventing your puppy from starting mouthing - that is the next and final stage.
Never start mouthing until requested
The final stage is to prevent unsolicited mouthing. Around the age of 5 months, your young dog should learn that it must not touch a person's body or clothes unless requested to do so, say during play fighting. Some trainers recommend avoiding play fighting altogether on the basis that, over time, many owners let play-mouthing get out of control. Dr. Dunbar suggests controlled play fighting is a healthy way to maintain the dogs 'soft mouth' so long as the play rules are obeyed at all times:
• Never use gloves when play fighting since a puppy will need to bite much harder before getting a reaction
• Start any play fighting with a short training session so that they see it as a reward.
• Frequently stop play fighting for short training interludes (say every 30 seconds).
• Anything other than mouthing is not allowed and will result in the end of the play session.
• Play mouthing must only start on command at the start of play sessions. It is not allowed at any other time and must not be initiated by your dog.
• Only mouthing of hands is allowed (never clothing or other parts of the body)
What is line training?
Many dogs respond to their owners' commands at close quarters. But the further away they get, the more deaf they seem to get. How many of you have spent considerable sections of walks chasing after your dog that refuses to stay close to you and obey commands?
Line training is a training technique to teach your dog to stay within a controlled boundary and whilst in this area, be attentive to your commands.
How easy is line training?
This training technique can be made to look easy, when carried out by an experienced trainer. However, it is an art that requires patience to master. You will find that training is more fun and pleasurable for both of you, if you make sure you master each stage before moving unto the next stage; so do not attempt to rush through the training stages, it will only frustrate you and the dog.
What do I need to line train?
All you need to start line training is a web training line (or web lead) and some training tibits such as Coachies . Web leads are a lightweight web line with a catch to attach to your dogs collar. The come in lengths from 6 to 30ft, we usually recommend a line of 20-30ft.
For the safety of your dog web leads must never be attached to choke chain type collars or head collars. It is also worth wearing a pair of gloves during training to avoid rope burns. If you find during training that your dog continually bites or plays with the training line, then make sure you exercise your dog before training to help him release his pent up energy. You may find that spraying some Bitter Bite on the line helps.
What are the stages in line training?
Stage 1: Training the 'STOP' and 'THIS WAY' commands
The STOP command is important so that should your dog become tangled in the web lead, you can stop your dog and untangle him. It is also a very useful command to have for day-to-day control. Practice this using a short 6ft lead. Walk forwards and give the queue 'STOP', then come to a halt. When your dog stops, treat and/or praise him instantly. Repeat this regularly during walks over a number of weeks in different environments (parks, busy streets, etc).
The 'THIS WAY' command is the opposite of the STOP command as it teaches your dog to follow you. When you employ the STOP command to stop your dog, use the THIS WAY command to start moving forwards again. Practice this over and over many times, using the THIS WAY command every time you change direction. Repeat the training in various different environments.
Stage 2: Basic direction changes:
Attach the web training line to your dog's collar or harness and allow it to drag behind to accustom your dog to this new lead. Give the queue 'THIS WAY' as you change direction. Praise your dog the instant they follow you. Remember you want your dog to follow you rather than recalling them to you. So you must praise the instant your dog changes direction towards you.
Over a number of sessions practice changing direction randomly, gently pulling and releasing the line when your dog is at a distance more than ¾ of the line length. Accompany this gentle tug with the THIS WAY command and praise the instance they change direction towards you. Remember that this exercise is simulation being off lead, so you should endeavour to keep the line loose at all times.
Stage 3: Stop the verbal cues:
You now need to teach your dog to watch you rather than listen. So once your dog is stopping, looking and following you without prompting, gradually drop the verbal 'THIS WAY' command and only use it when necessary. However, continue to praise your dog when they follow your direction changes.
Stage 4: Remove the training line:
When your dog is following you with minimal prompting, let go of the line and allow it to drag on the ground. If necessary, press one foot on the line if your dog moves beyond the controlled boundary. Practice this over a number of sessions and in different environments. Make sure you start from stage 1 and build up slowly in new environments; you want the dog to succeed and learn from the experience rather than to set high expectations that the dog will be unable to meet in new, more exciting environments.
Dog Agility
Dog agility is a sport in which a dog moves through an obstacle course with the guidance of his or her handler. Dogs run off lead, so the handler's only controls are voice and body language, requiring exceptional high standards of obedience.
In competition agility, both accuracy and speed are important. Dog agility is a fairly new sport, created as merely a demonstration in the 1978 Crufts Dog Show in the United Kindom . It has since spread rapidly around the world, with major competitions held worldwide.
What is an Agility Course?
In its simplest form, an agility course consists of a set of standard obstacles, laid out by an agility judge in a design of his own choosing, with numbers indicating the order in which the dog must complete the obstacles. Although different organisations specify somewhat different rules for the construction of obstacles, the basic form of the obstacles is the same wherever they are used. Obstacles include the following:
Contact Obstacles
A-Frame Two platforms, usually about 3 feet (1 m) wide by 8 to 9 feet (3 m) long, hinged together and raised so that the hinged connection is between five and six-and-a-half feet above the ground, forming roughly an A shape. The bottom 36 to 42 inches (1 m) of both sides of the A-frame are painted a light color, usually yellow, forming the contact zone, into which the dog must place at least one paw while ascending or descending. Most sanctioning organisations require that A-frames have low, narrow horizontal slats all along their length to assist the dog's grip going up and down.
Dog Walk Three 8 to 12 ft (3 to 4 m) planks, 9 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) wide, connected at the ends. The center plank is raised to about 4 feet (1.2 m) above the ground, so that the two end planks form ramps leading up to and down from the center plank. This obstacle also has contact zones. Most sanctioning organisations also require slats on the dogwalk ramps; a slatless dogwalk looks almost the same as a teeter-totter to a dog approaching it head-on.
Seesaw/Teeter-totter is a 10 to 12 foot (3 to 4 m) plank supported just off-center about 2 feet (60 cm) above the ground so that the same end always returns to the ground. This also has contact zones. The balance point and the weight of the plank must be such that even a tiny dog, can cause the high end of the teeter-totter to descend to the ground within a reasonable amount of time, specified by the sanctioning organisation's rules (usually about 2 seconds). Smaller dogs get more time to run a course, and this is one reason why it can take them longer than it takes larger dogs.
Crossover Picture a 4 foot (1.2 m) high table (see "Miscellaneous") obstacle with dogwalk ramps descending from the center of all four sides. The dog must ascend the correct ramp and then possibly change direction at the top to descend the ramp indicated by the handler. This has not been a commonly used obstacle and not all organisations have allowed it.
Tunnels
Tunnel / Chute A solid tube, 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) long and about 2 feet (60 cm) in diameter, through which the dog runs. The tunnel is constructed of flexible vinyl and wire so that it can be configured in a straight line or curved.
Collapsed tunnel /Chute A barrel-like cylinder with a tube of fabric attached around one end. The fabric extends about 8 to 12 feet (3 to 4 m) and lies closed until the dog runs into the open end of the chute and pushes his way out through the fabric tube.
Tunnel Maze A new obstacle (as of 2004) consisting of several interconnected tunnels through which the handler must guide the dog by voice commands.
Jumps
Jump / HurdleTwo upright bars supporting a horizontal bar over which the dog jumps. The height is adjusted for dogs of different heights. The uprights can be simple bars or can have wings of various shapes, sizes, and colors.
Double and triple jumps Two or three sets of uprights, each with horizontal poles. The Double can have parallel or ascending horizontal bars; the triple always has ascending bars. The spread between the horizontal bars is sometimes adjusted for the height of the dog.
Panel jump Instead of horizontal bars, the jump is a solid panel from the ground up to the jump height. This is usually constructed of several short panels that can be removed to adjust the height for different dog heights.
Broad jump A set of four or five slightly raised platforms that form a broad area over which the dog must jump without setting feet on any of the platforms. Length is adjusted for dog's height.
Tire jump This is just what it sounds like: A tire shape suspended in a frame. The dog must jump through the opening of the tire, which varies between about 18 and 24 inches (450 to 600 mm). The tire must be wrapped with tape so that there are no openings or uneven places in which the dog could catch. The height is adjusted for dogs of different heights.
Other Obstacles
Table (or pause table) An elevated square platform about 3 feet (1 m) across onto which the dog must jump and pause, either sitting or in a down position, for a certain period counted out by the judge, usually about 5 seconds. The height ranges from about 8 to 30 inches (20 to 75 cm) depending on the dog's height.
Weave poles Similar to a slalom, this is a series of upright poles, each about 3 feet (1 m) tall and spaced about 20 inches (50 cm) apart, through which the dog weaves. Varies from 5 to 12 poles at one time. The dog must always enter with the first pole to his left and must not skip poles.
Teaching Dog Agility
Teaching a dog the basic execution of most obstacles takes only a small amount of time and simple training techniques; most dogs can be readily convinced to run through a short, straight tunnel to chase a toy or to go to their owner, for example. However, to compete in agility trials and to develop speed and accuracy, both dog and handler must learn a wide range of techniques for doing the equipment, performing sequences of obstacles, and communicating on course while running full out.
The teeter-totter and the weave poles are probably the most challenging obstacles to teach, the first because many dogs are wary of the board's movement, and the second because it is not a behaviour that they would do naturally over a series of 12 poles. However, it can also be challenging to train the dog to perform its contact obstacles in a manner that ensures that they get paws into the contact zone without sacrificing speed.
Training techniques vary greatly. For example, techniques for training the weave poles include using offset poles that gradually move more in line with each other; using poles that tilt outward from the base and gradually become upright; using wires or gates around the poles forcing the dog into the desired path; putting a hand in the dog's collar and guiding the dog through while leading with a toy or treat; teaching the dog to run full speed between 2 poles and gradually increasing the angle of approach and number of poles; and many other techniques.
Courtesy of WikipediaThis article and photos are licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License, which means that you can copy and modify it as long as the entire work ( including additions) remains under this license.
Stop your dog pulling on the lead?
Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.
So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.
In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.
What are the first steps?
Buying a head collar is the single most useful step to start addressing this problem. Head collars allow you to control your dogs head movement and wherever their head goes, the body will follow. They work much in the same way as halters do for horses. Halti and Gentle Leader and the most popular versions, although others are available (see our article How to use Halti and gentle leader head collars)
Unless you have a very small dog, it is worth purchasing a training lead. Some of these (e.g. the Halti Training Lead) allow you to fasten the lead around your waist or over one shoulder. This allows your body to take the strain of the pulling, rather than your arm.
Then What?
Now you have taken the strain out of walking, its time to start the training. There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.
If your dog is trying to pull and getting know where, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.
I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.
SEE OUR FULL RANGE OF TRAINING LEADS
What is clicker training ?
Some say that clicker training is one of the most significant advances in dog training in recent history. Derived from dolphin training, the idea behind this technique is that dogs are better able to understand exactly what we are asking of them if we are able to precisely tell them the exact moment they are doing it.
This is where the clicker comes in; the timing of the sound from these devices signals the precise moment a particular training exercise is completed correctly.
What is a clicker?
With all the hype, getting your hands on a clicker can be a little disappointing. Most of them look as if they have came from a Christmas cracker. They are small, usually plastic, devices with a metal strip that, when pressed and released, makes a loud 'click' sound!
What are the benefits?
The clicker is a much faster and simpler means of communicating correct behaviour over the spoken word. Dogs love this form of training as it is completely positive and reward based.
Over time, you will actually see them experimenting, then listening for the click, experimenting again until they hear it. Dogs enjoy this training technique as it is very stimulating for them and, because this method encourages co-operation without stress, it is often a chosen technique for training rescue dogs.
How to get started ?
It all sounds so simple doesn't it? Well, it takes a little practice, so here are a few tips:
• Press the clicker at the exact moment the correct behaviour is displayed (not 2-3 seconds later)
• Reinforce the click with good things, namely a treat (preferably a soft one that is easily consumed without distraction) . Vary the length of time between the click and the treat.
• Start new exercises in small steps, clicking and rewarding each step until they can perform the whole exercise in one step.
• Don't discipline your dog when they get it wrong. Give them time to experiment and figure it out for themselves.
• It sounds odd, but don't pet your dog during the exercise. Your touch will distract them from the exercise.
• Try not to let your dog see the clicker. It is the sound you want them to be interested in, not the clicker itself.
• Be patient, this will take a number of sessions. Stop clicker training sessions while your dog is still interested.
How about an example
When starting a new exercise, the best way to use a clicker is to lure your dog (usually with a treat), then click when they get it right.
Ok, let's teach your dog to SIT.
Get your dog’s attention. Using a treat, lure your dog into the sitting position by slowly raising the treat above their head. As soon as they are sitting, press and release the clicker and then after a couple of seconds, reward the dog with the treat.
Once your dog is able to sit within 5 seconds of being offered a treat, it is time to introduce the cue word, which in this case would be SIT. It can take many repetitions before your dog fully associates the cue word with sitting down. Your objective is for the cue word to trigger the command and not the treat. When you think you are there, be sure to only reward the behaviour when requested.
FURTHER READING
Although based on 19th Century 'associative learning' research by Ivan Pavlov, the use of clickers originated in the 1930's- particularly for the training of marine mammals and birds. Thanks to Karen Pryor, a renowned dog and dolphin trainer, this technique found its way into dog training in the late 1980s'. Her book 'Don't shoot the dog' has became primary reading by those serious about clicker training.
Why is puppy training & socialisation so important ?
At the age of 4 ½ months, puppies quickly move from cuddly teddy bears to confident and mischievous adolescents. For your own and your dogs benefit, it is important to adequately prepare for this transformation to make it as enjoyable (!) as possible.
Puppy training and socialisation is now considered the single most important step you can take in that preparation. These should be started from the age of 13 weeks, but no later than 20 weeks. You should only attend after your puppy has received all its vaccinations.
What happens at puppy classes?
The format of puppy training and socialisation classes will vary from school to school, but the primary objective of them all is to fully socialise your puppy and prepare it for all the many new experiences it will encounter through its life. It is at these sessions that your puppy will learn canine social etiquette and body language in a controlled and safe environment.
They will play with other puppies of their own age. They learn bite inhibition and build confidence, as well overcoming shyness and fearfulness. This is not to say they will not experience difficult encounters later in life, but a confident and fully socialised dog will be better equipped to deal with these encounters and less traumatise by them.
At puppy training, playing with other puppies can often be frenzied with lots of chase and play fighting. There will be plenty of opportunity receive appropriate feedback for biting too hard. In effect, puppies teach each other how to behave.
The other main objective of puppy training is to educate owners of basic training techniques and dog behaviour understanding. Teach them to better understand their dog and gain better control over them.
How to select a puppy training and socialisation class?
Unless a school has been recommended to you, it is a good idea to visit a class without your dog. Here are few hints and tips to be looking for from a good puppy school:
• Puppies should all be in a the aged range of 13-20 weeks at the start of the course.
• The school environment should be clean and hygienic, preferably indoors.
• Only positive training techniques should be used. Avoid classes that advocate use of metal collars, choke chains or any means that requires punishment or domination - all now considered ineffective as well as unpleasant.
• Puppies should have plenty of opportunity to play together off the lead.
• Classes should not be a free for all. All puppies should be frequently asked to settle during sessions.
• Look at the puppies, are they having a good time !
• Ask if children are able to attend. They are often able to spend a lot more time with your puppy than you can, so it is a good idea for them to learn good training practices as well as you.
• Does the training allow time after the class to ask questions or discuss any concerns you might be experiencing.
• Good puppy schools also cover other important areas such as preparing your puppy for vet visits and conditioning them to strange sounds (fireworks, thunder storms etc).
Problems with Dog Crates!
The problem with dog crates is convincing people that crating a dog is not cruel and unusual punishment! The dog is not in "jail". Dogs that are crate-trained actually like their crates. Dogs are den animals. A crate can be your dog's "den" - a safe haven where he can relax and feel secure, a room of his own. Ever wished you could just go to your room for peace and quiet? Well your dog may feel the same way at times.
A puppy should not be confined continuously (except at night), but a crate can be a big help for an hour or two at a time. As the pup grows older, he can spend longer periods of time in a crate as long as it isn't a regular long-term arrangement.
The only problems arise if the pup is forced into the crate suddenly and becomes frightened, or if he is left in it for hours at a time and becomes lonely and bored.
Crates can be very useful for dogs of any age. At some time in your dog's life, he may need to stay at the veterinarian's, where he will be confined in a crate. If he has been crate-trained ahead of time, he will feel safe and secure instead of overly stressed. A dog that can relax and rest in a crate may even have a faster recovery rate.
A crate is also excellent for car travel. It keeps the dog safe from sudden stops and swerves, and keeps the people safe from an excitable dog.
Types of Crates and Sizes:
There are two types of dog crates -
the fiberglass "airline" kennel , and the folding wire crate . The choice is yours. Some dogs prefer more privacy - you can drape a towel or blanket over a wire crate if desired. Wire crates are generally more expensive but you have the advantage of folding them up if necessary.
The crate should be large enough so that the dog can stand up, turn around, and lie down. If using the crate to housebreak a puppy, it is important that the crate not be too large. Buy a crate that will accomodate your pet when it is fully grown. Then get a piece of pegboard that will fit the inside of the crate. Using plastic 'wire ties', secure the pegboard as a divider inside the crate, giving only enough room for the puppy to lay down inside. Some folks have used bricks (or even concrete blocks!) to take up extra space temporarily. As the puppy grows, provide more room by moving the divider. When the puppy does not soil in its crate, remove the divider so the puppy can have use of the full crate.
Getting your dog used to the crate:
When getting the dog used to the crate, keep it near the center of activity so the dog won't feel isolated. A corner of the kitchen or the family room is good. At night you can move the crate to your bedroom so the dog can be with you.
Set the crate up and let the dog investigate it. Show it to him while talking in a happy voice. Have some yummy treats on hand. Put a treat just inside the crate and let the dog get it. Then throw a treat farther inside the crate, until the dog is willingly going all the way inside the crate. Leave the door open during this phase. When the dog is comfortable going into the crate, shut the door with the dog inside. Scratch him through the side of the crate, tell him how wonderful he is, give more treats and let him out. Repeat this step several times. The next step is to leave the room for only a few seconds, then return and let him out. Gradually build up the time you are away. After the dog is crate-trained, he will be content in the crate for several hours at a time, if he is properly exercised beforehand.
Always praise the dog for going into the crate, and during the training process give him a treat every time you put him into the crate. Use a word or phrase, like "go to bed". or "kennel".
Use the crate wisely. Don't crate only when you are leaving the house, or he may associate the crate with being left alone. Place the dog in the crate while you are home, too. By crating when you are home and when you leave, the dog becomes comfortable in it and not anxious that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to reduce separation anxiety later in life.
Never let the dog out of the crate while he is barking or whining. This would reward him for barking, and he will be training you to let him out when he wants. Try ignoring the dog while he is barking, and let him out after he has been quiet for a few seconds. If the barking persists, you will need to use a correction. Tap the top of the crate, making a loud noise, as you say "Quiet". Praise as soon as he is quiet, and give a treat. Give random treats while the dog is quiet. Be proactive, not just reactive when he barks or whines.
I like to give a stuffed kong, bully stick, or other safe chewy when I crate a dog.
Feeding the dog in the crate is one way to speed the acceptance of the crate.
When your dog is not confined in the crate, leave the door open so he can go in if he wants. Never permit children to crawl into the dog's crate. This is his own space and should be a place where he can go for peace and quiet when children get overbearing or when he just wants to be alone.
A crate is a wonderful tool for the prevention of problems. It can keep your dog safe, happy, and non-destructive.
Copyright © Pat Scott
The single most important aspect of housetraining is that you reward and praise your dog each and every time he eliminates in the right place. The more time you spend with your dog, the quicker and easier it will be to housetrain him. When you first get your puppy, take a couple of weeks off work, and housebreak him, using a crate.
Unfortunately most people don't really understand the power of crate training, they see it as a nasty cage thing. Don't look at the crate as a cage for punishment, look at it as a One bedroom self contained apartment for your dog. Crate trained dogs love their crate. it makes them feel safe, and comfortable.
The key to housetraining is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that he can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that he will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is housetrained, he should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, he will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine him to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to housetrain a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while he is confined, then he will need to eliminate when he is released, i.e., he eliminates when you are present to reward and praise him
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that he will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever he feels like it, he learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget him for extended periods of time. If your dog soils his crate because you left him there too long, the housetraining process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve himself every hour. Each time you let him out, put him on leash and immediately take him outside. Once outside, give him about three to five minutes to produce. If he does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return him to his crate. If he does perform, then immediately reward him with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take him to his toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that his bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have him on a regular feeding schedule, he should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day he usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking him out only at those times instead of every hour. After he has eliminated, he can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put him in his crate. This will prevent him from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, he will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine him before his scheduled outing can be reduced and eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given him unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until he can be trusted, don't give him unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
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What To Expect
Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect your puppy to be completely housetrained until he is at least 6 months old. It's normal for young pups to be little 'input-output' machines. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
When You Are Not Home
Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset, just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.
Passive Training
While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room. Once your pup is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If he misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.
When You Are Home
When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. But the more time you spend with your pup, the quicker he will be housetrained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking. When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the housetraining process back drastically. Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room.
Active Training
The most important thing you can do to make housetraining happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.
Key to Success
Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not reliably housetrained until they are 6 months old.
Except mine, which took 5 days. And never had an accident again. MM