I want a siberian husky sometime this year,i have some questions...?

Question

I will be a first time owner of a dog and i REALLY want a sib. Now i know they are very active dog and probably not a good first choice,but no other will do,sue me. I plan to move into an area with a nice backyard and fenced as well. My questions are more general dog questions but any sib info is welcomed...

First i want to get a puppy sib,ive always wanted to get a dog when they are young and small.

1) How much would a puppy sib cost?

2) What would i need to train him/her? Potty training,etc? Would i need to get a trainer for that and how does that work? Would the trainer come train her for a month or two or ??? (remember my first dog)

3) How much would food cost for a month?

4) How much do i recommend i take my dog walking/jogging with me? 1-2 hours a day or more,etc? How many times a week?

5) Should the dog already come with shots,etc? I really want a girl sib but a male sib will do as well. I dont really want them to breed so should i get them spade or whatever the word for that is? Should they already come like that?

6) Ok how does the vet thing work? Just like a doctor,as in they should come in once a month for checkups or ??? ANd how much would that cost?

7)) What else you recommend for me or things i failed to mention?

Go ahead and be harsh on me,i plan to do alot more research as the time i get a sib comes closer but this is just for my to know general info... Please refrain from telling me not to get a sib,im sure there not good first time pets but ive wanted one for years. I am rreally dedicated to getting this dog and making him my best bud.

Thank you very all who answer!

Answer 1

1. Between £0-500 depending if it's got champion blodo or not.

2. A Crate, long line lead, kong toys [ so can be stuffed to help when it is teething], Collar, normal lead, dog blanket, water + food bowl, and a sand pit [ Sib. LOVE to dig ] Oh and a whole truck full of patience =]

3. £40 probs, depending on quality of food.

4.Dont walk them at mid-dog, they will over heat, if you must take alot of water and let them rest in shade, take them for a walk at dawn and dusk for 2+ hours each walk. They love to pull, [ after they are a year old so don't damage growth] get a sled harness and teach husky to pull you on a shakeboard or roller blades, great excersize for dog. and alot of fun =]

5. Depends on breeder, at 8-9 weeks shoudl get thier first round of shots, and most dogs get "done" around 6-8 months as after this they become mature.

6. The Vet tells you, have 2 rounds of shots [aleast] during first month, then every year for boosters, and "done" around 6-8 months old [ and microchipped]. All depends on your vocal vet, just walk in and take those questions to them =]

7.Write down a list of commands you will teach the dog, so you are consistent. Buy a puppy to dog training guide, they can be really useful =] or just look around on the internet for " crate training or " leash training" etc.



Good luck

Answer 2

1) A purebred of any breed is going to run you a couple hundred dollars, and generally larger dogs cost more. You may find a mutt that still looks almost entirely like a Sib for as little as $50.00 if you find one in an animal shelter.



2) You'll need to decide if you will train the dog to defecate outside only or if you will train them to use paper as well. Only downside of paper is that it stinks like holy hell and is a big mess to clean up. Most owners don't continue this past puppyhood. This training will take awhile with a puppy, most older dogs will adjust quickly. You really have to potty train them yourself, because you need to reinforce the behavior you want every time they go. Professional trainers are mainly for teaching routines like sit/stay, heel, etc, which is really nothing you shouldn't be able to do yourself.



3) The average cost of any dog (including normal medical expenses and food/other supplies) is around $2000 a year. This can skyrocket when the animal is sick, which is bound to happen sooner or later.



4) Walk the dog EVERY DAY. No exceptions. Any less and you have discipline problems. It's not only physical exercise, it's also mental stimulation (would you like to never leave the house?) and it's time with you the animal considers bonding time. Almost every discipline problem that happens with dogs happens because they aren't walked enough. An hour is a decent time to shoot for, but it doesn't have to be non-stop. 2 half hour walks would work too. When there's bad weather, you'll be better off bringing the dog outside and letting THEM decide they'd rather go back in than to leave them begging at the door.



5) Most older dogs will already have their basic shots updated before you buy them. Puppies need to have their first shots by a certain age. If you get the dog from a shelter, the shelter will often pay for these initial shots. If you don't want puppies, YOU HAVE TO HAVE THEM FIXED. Both sexes live longer, healthier lives after getting fixed. It's more expensive to have a girl spayed than a male neutered. A girl that isn't spayed will get her period (just like a human), will release stinky sex pheremones, and other unpleasant things. males that are not fixed will be more aggressive, will not respond as quickly with any training, and will urinate around the house to mark their territory all the time.



6) Just like kids, the shots dogs get need to be updated every couple months. A monthly checkup is recommended for a puppy, after about 2 years you can get by with once or twice a year as long as they are in good health. In general it would be about $80 a visit, and just like people, if they need any medication that costs A LOT.



7) I would recommend finding a dog with a good temperment, personality, and energy level for your lifestyle instead of just a breed you like for the way they look. Also, mutts (dogs that are bred from two different species) are cheaper and usually healthier than purebred dogs. Finally, go to your local animal shelters before you go to pet stores or breeders. Not only will you find a good animal a loving home, but the shelters will be your best friend for any questions you have in the near future.

Answer 3

1.) Well the price depends if its a purebred or not and where you get it. My husky is husky, and german sheperd and we got her at the local shelter and she was around $200.



2.) My husky actually isnt in the house all that much, she has a little house under our porch that is fairly warm and she dont like being inside for long periods of time without barking just to be outside.. but when it gets below 0, be bring her inside. When ever she would have an accident, i would just stick her nose in it, give her a little smack on the nose (but not too hard) and put her outside. it really didnt take her too long to learn, just make sure to bring your husky out at least ever 2 hours depending on its diet. And if your husky will be mostly inside, it will learn even faster than mine did.



3.) For mine, we ususally get the big bags, cause shes under weight, really depends on the dogs health and what kind the dog CAN have and CANT have..



4.) Well, dogs really should be walked everday, and concidering its a husky, they need to exercise. You should take it on a walk at least once a day to run and strech its legs and run off some energy.



5.) Usually they come with some shots and if you get it from the shelter, they have to be fixed. But mine needed extra care cause she had worms and she was pregnet. (the shelter didnt know which wasnt very smart or professional of them cause they told us she was purfectly healthy. -lie-)



6.) when you first get your dog, bring it to the vet, let them check her/him out and make sure shes healthy. Then they should be able to tell you when to bring him/her back. Checkups arent usually too expensive, but they are when they start needed care.



7.) Make sure your dog gets lots of attention and exercise. Make sure you let your dog know whos boss.



and.. Good Luck!! =]

Answer 4

Cost will depend on whether you want a pet puppy or you intend to breed/show. If you are looking for a pet puppy, check out your local shelter or rescue group. Some rescues have both adult and puppies, but let me warn you that adult rescues usually come with baggage, and for a first time owner I would not recomend this. Costs can range from hundreds to thousands, depending on bloodlines. Chances are if you get your puppy from a shelter/rescue, it will be spayed/neutered before taking puppy home.

You could always go another route: check out the Siberian Husky of America Club website and look for a breeder in your area and get to know them. Let them know you and what you are looking for. You can talk to several to get an idea of what you are looking for and once you have an idea, contact that breeder and set up an appointment to visit their kennel. Visit their dogs and ask to see pedigrees. These may not mean alot to most people, but they do to me. I know the major kennels in 2 breeds and if I do not see these kennels in the pedigree, I generally run. Not to say that these are bad, just my thing. Also pay attention to your gut, if something does not feel right in your gut, RUN away and contact another breeder on your list. This is why I suggest more than one kennel.

Some breeders may have puppies, some may not. If the one you are interested in does not, ask for a referral.

Before bringing any puppy home, here are some books to read:

This Is the Siberian Husky - Joan McDonald Brearley; How to Raise a Puppy You can Live With - Rutherford and Neal.

First time sibe owners need to do their homework, read everything you can about them. And believe me you can never read too much. There are also groups devoted to this wonderful breed where you can sign up and share experiences and ask questions. Once you have your puppy, it is best to seek help from others who are more experienced. Sibes can be challenging at times and it helps alleviate feelings of frustration when you share with others. I know I am glad I signed up for my groups.

Next, find a vet. Do not wait til you bring your pup home and try and find a vet. Do this in advance by asking your dog owner friends who they would recomend as a vet. While you are at it, ask for a referral to a trainer. Just to warn you: If any trainer asks you to use shock collars on your pup - run. Shock collars can have long term damaging effects. Look for someone who specializes in positive reinforcement techniques.

Supplies: Crate, just big enough for him/her to turn around in. Otherwise you risk smelly consequences. You can buy an adult size crate for your pup, but make sure you have a divider, so you can expand as your pup matures.

Food bowls: Steer clear of platic bowls/dishes. These are coated with a protecting agent and can make dogs sick. I learned this the hard way. Trust me stainless steel pans and water buckets are the way to go.

Collars and leashes: Look for a buckle collar for tags only. I personally use show collars to train and also triple crown collar. I have several 6" leashes for walks; 15" leashes for working and training; and also have some 25 and 50" leashes for puppy training. These will come in handy when you want the puppy to have some freedom, but also helpful in training to come. I also have retractable collars too mostly for quick walks.

Harnesses: Black Ice Dogsledding has puppy harnesses and does custom made harnesses. I have 2 harnesses from them and I am pleased with them. Check them out for a full line of their products.

If you are getting a puppy, they should NOT leave their mother before they are 8 weeks old. They should come with their first shots, records to prove that, and if they are purebred some sort of registration papers. UP til they are about 6 months you will be going to the vet once a month minimum for shots and weight checks. Six months is also the age most vets recomend spay/neuter. Some breeders do that before they leave the kennel, but there is widespread discussion on that. Once you have found your vet, this would be a question to ask them. My vet would not neuter/spay before 6 months - to allow them to mature properly.

Food cost will depend on what you decide to feed as well as what you can afford to feed. I feed Pedigree along with Natural Balance Sweet Potato and fish. I also give fish oil and canned salmon too. When I buy treats, I buy puppy treats and break them up into small pieces. This saves you money by stretching the treats, plus it helps your pup in the weight department. When you are at the vet be sure and ask what a healthy MONTHLY weight gain should be. Sibe puppies should not be allowed to get overweight as this will contribute to hip problems as they get older.

Exercise in a puppy should start out slowly and build up to probably 20 minutes a day max. Puppies do not need much exercise - should not have too much exercise as this can damage growing joints and tendons. After the dog is

Answer 5

1. depends on where you live, how much they cost., 2, I train my own puppies, you could take obedience classes, or agility classes. 3. I spend 20.00 a month of dog food, I have 3 dogs.4. maybe 1 hour when little, more when older, I practice walking the puppy in my backyard first and then walk in street. It is less overwhelming. walk them daily. 5. shots depends on where you live and the laws there, a puppy needs shots, an older dog only needs shots once a year or so, depending on where you live. Spay female dogs, neuter male dogs around 6-months-old. 6. Do your homework on vets in your area. Some schedule appointments, some do first come first serve, some will come to your home, make sure you know how to contact them after hours. Cost varies, and sometimes you get what you pay for. They usually do a new puppy exam within 24 to 72 hours depending on your contract, and they set up a shot schedule then. After the first year, it is usually once a year, unless the dog is sick or something. www. dog breed info. com/ husky alaskan siberian .html, or www. shca .org/ index .shtml Here are some tips, use what helps. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.



REVISIONS:

*I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.

*OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.

*BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.

*TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.

*SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.

*YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.

SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!